I then decided to finish the rest of the linkages, such as the upper links. Same process as before.. insert allen studs into rod ends.

Then we thread the rod ends/studs into the links with a dab of blue thread lock.

Upper links completed.

Now we’ll start on the front axle. All of this is pretty much the same as the rear axle, so I won’t describe every step until we get to something new.

Same deal with the lower link hole drilling.

Ok, this is new. This is the ZRP servo mount. It basically replaced the stock axle tube brace and drops the servo in there. This is machined out of aluminum and anodized black. I’ve not used this type of setup on my past clods, but it seems like it will work quite well. The ZRP Diablo kit comes with 2 of these for if you want to run 4 wheel steering. The Diablo kit is also equipped with the modern, BTA (Behind The Axle) steering linkage. This is a cleaner way of mounting the steering linkages and give the axle a very unique look (no steering links in front of the axle like old school conversions).

You need to install this with the gearbox unassmbled, as one of the screws to secure it is mounted from the inside. It is held in place by 3 screws.

Servo mount is now installed, and gearbox is together. I temporarily installed the steering knuckles so that I could complete the steering linkage assembly without having to deal with having the lower links installed yet. We’ll do that after this part is done.

For this build, like the Stock Clodbuster, we are running the ultra strong and reliable SC-1258TG servo that was graciously sent to us by Savox.

I use this same servo in my 2wd and 4wd Short Course trucks, and it has been rock-solid reliable for me. I love them!

A closeup.

This is in the instructions. The servo won’t QUITE fit the servo mount without modifying the tab on the outside of the servo. See how it hits?

The solution is to take a hobby knife and trim the corner off the lower tab. This will allow it to fit. Don’t go crazy here, because you don’t need to remove a ton of material for it to fit.

Perfect fitment!

Here is the BTA steering linkage. It’s made from carbon fiber.

Let’s install it shall we? It mounts with shoulder bolts and a rubber grommet to smooth out the steering action.

Pretty straight forward. One screw on each end.

Now we make the center steering link. We have to chop a rod end down a little here for this.

We’re going to run the Kimbrough Large Servo Saver #124. This thing is heavy duty, and the only servo saver I’ve ever trusted on any of my clods.

It comes with a variety of different spline inserts to adapt to most servos on the market.

I took my hobby knife and slightly reamed out the hole I was going to use for the steering.

Next we install the center link to the servo saver.

Then we install the center link to the BTA steering link and install the servo saver onto the servo.

Now we basically have a complete front axle (minus the lower links).

Now we’ll install the other ZRP upper link mount. Same process as before.

Complete!

Now I’ll go ahead and remove the steering linkage for a minute to install the lower links. This simply required the removal of the 4 shoulder bolts from the steering knuckles.

Lower link screws installed.

Lower links installed. In this pic they are facing the wrong direction, I just set it on the table quick.

Same mounting method as before with the rod end.

Ok, NOW we have a completed front axle assembly.